I visited Athens several times in 1997. Although the main purpose of these trips was work, I took the opportunity to do all the tourist things and sight see, etc. And I fell in love with Athens.
Also in 1997, I did a creative writing course in the UK, where I was living at the time. The novel I was planning never got written, but I recently rediscovered some of my homework from that course. In week 4, the home set was:
Write two travel articles, one descriptive and one factual
Given I’d recently been to Athens and loved it, I guess it made sense to choose Athens as my topic. So for the sake of history, here are the two articles on Athens, published for the first time (when I did the course there was so such thing as a blog.
Of course, a lot of time has passed, which includes the 2004 Olympics in Athens and the vast redevelopment work in preparation for that, so I’m very aware that this will be well out of date. I’ve never been back to Athens, so if you have any insight, please let me know in the comments.
Athens (Descriptive)
Athens is a city of contrast.
You can stroll idly down the worn stone pavements of Plaka, the old town, browsing through quaint shops under the watchful gaze of the ancient Acropolis, a towering monument to mankind.
Or you can visit stylish designer fashion boutiques rivalling any in the world, followed by coffee in a landscaped city square, an island in a torrent of traffic: mopeds weaving between zooming cars, taxis and buses.
Athens is at once an ancient city of relics and a vibrant, bustling cosmopolitan centre. It is overrun with museums, churches and historical sites, but is also full of cramped, busy buildings, modern shops, zooming traffic and buzzing streets which give way to quiet cafés. The majority of tourists come for the city’s amazing history, but for a complete experience, all aspects of the city must be sampled.
The people reflect the city: laid back and relaxed, but also capable of great passion and furious gesticulations if aroused. Stray cats and dogs abound, wandering between the traffic and through open air restaurants, but seemingly never going hungry, thanks to generous locals.
If you climb up to the Acropolis at dawn you can watch the sun rise over the city, as it comes alive, a myriad of bells peeling from first one direction then another, in a non stop celebration of the new day. You must wait until 8am before entering the Acropolis, but the witnessing the sun rise over it and its daughter city is definitely worth the wait. It will also provide you with the view of a bus load of fluffy toed soldiers in national dress, arriving to spend the day guarding the city’s centrepiece.
Once inside the Acropolis you will be able to walk amongst temples which are over two and a half thousand years old. It’s amazing to consider the age of these buildings and the incredible people who somehow constructed them. The forms of these temples might be reminiscent of the Roman era, but it must be remembered that the Athenians preceded the Roman era and had a large influence on it.
When you have finished wondering at the Acropolis, it is worth walking down into Plaka and the other areas of the old town. Here you will find many more ruins, hidden within the maze of houses, quaint shops and cafes, along with a plethora of tourist gift shops. And if museums interest you, you will never be bored in Athens.
If hunger arises as you explore the city, try one of the abundant patisseries, where you will be able to purchase a variety of delicious breads, fresh rolls and sandwiches and of course an exquisite range of pastries and cakes.
In the afternoon and evening, you will encounter the mouth-watering aroma of sizzling meat, wafting to you from one of the tiny Greek eateries, tempting you to follow it. Give in and sample some of the delights they have to offer: gyro, souvlaki, or perhaps even a famous Greek Salad, fresh salad dancing in olive oil. Find a small restaurant with tables out in the street, and watch Athens go by as you eat, local musicians serenading you as they wander amongst the tables.
Athens, a city of contrasts, just waiting to be explored.
Athens (Factual)
Athens, the capital of the Hellenic Republic of Greece, is also its spiritual and financial centre, and occupies a leading economic position in the Eastern Mediterranean. Athens’ population of over 4 million people represent 40% of the total population of Greece. It is a city of great ethnic diversity as a result of many centuries of foreign rule: Turks, Slavs, Albanians, Bulgarians, Armenians, Gypsys and many other races call Athens home. These influences combine with the traditional, to form Athen’s own unique character.
Athens is a city of history, with many of it’s leading attractions historical. The city has contributed much to Western culture since ancient times and is seen as the birthplace of European civilisation. It was home to Socrates, Plato, Aristotle and many other philosophers and scholars. Its pinnacle was the Classical period, in the 5th Century Before Christ, when the Athenians controlled much of the eastern Mediterranean.
During this time many buildings were constructed, including the Acropolis which is still the focal point of any visit to Athens. It sits atop a hill, next to the original settlement of Athens, and overlooks the city. Access to the Acropolis is via a monumental gateway, which was built in 267AD as part of the Roman fortifications to the original complex.
The Acropolis contains three temples: the Temple of Athena Nike built in 427BC to commemorate the Athenian victory over the Persians; the Erechtheion built in 421BC where legend has it Poseidon left his trident marks in a rock and Athena grew an olive tree in their battle for possession of the city; and finally the Parthenon, one of the worlds most famous buildings. The Parthenon was built in 447BC as an expression of the glory of ancient Athens and remains it’s symbol even today. Its focus was a huge statue of Athena, patron goddess of Athens.
In addition to the temples, there are two ancient theatres on the southern slopes, one of which is still used today for outdoor concerts. There is also a museum on the site. The Acropolis is open between 8am and 6:30pm Monday to Friday and 8:30am and 2:30pm on Saturday and Sunday.
The Ancient Agora, which formed the political heart of ancient Athens, is another popular tourist attraction. It consisted of a market-place, law courts, theatres, schools, shops, temples, a library and even a mint. It was the site of Socrates’ execution in 399 BC. The best preserved building on the site is the Hephaisteion, a temple built in 449 BC and there is also a museum on the site in the reconstructed Stoa of Attalos. The Agora is open from 8:30am to 2:30pm Tuesday to Sunday.
In addition to the Acropolis and the Agora, there are a host of other archeological remains to be explored, including the Tower of the Winds which was both water clock and weather vane. There are also museums aplenty, each containing many artifacts and fine exhibits on ancient life. If perusing historical sites and artifacts appeals to you, you will find plenty to interest you in Athens.
If however, you prefer shopping to museums, there are many delights to be found in Athens. The many open air street markets offer a variety of interesting goods as well as entertainment by the local buskers. Arcades are spread throughout the city, housing shops selling leather goods, electrical goods, books, craft and many other items. Designer fashion boutiques to rival those in Paris or New York can also be found in the city. In Plaka (the old town), there is no end of souvenir shops catering for the many tourists, selling everything from postcards to replica statues.
There are also many culinary delights to be had in Athens. Patisseries sell a variety of breads, biscuits, ice cream and confectionry. Nuts, cheese, smoked cod roe and wine are all readily obtainable. There are many traditional Greek eateries, serving gyros, souvlaki and greek salads. Cafes also abound, if you desire just to sit and watch the city go by.
The climate is mild and relatively dry. July and September are particularly dry, with most of the rain expected between October and February. The temperature averages between 9.6c and 11.4c during December to February, whilst from May to September it ranges from 20.5C and 28C, sometimes soaring as high as 40C. The best time to visit is May, June or September so that the heat and the crowds present in July and August are avoided.
Athens is a small city and most attractions are within easy walking distance. Walking will also allow you to view many interesting sights, which would otherwise be missed. However if walking is not for you, then taxis are both cheap and abundant and there are frequent buses running in the city.
Athens is an interesting city full of history, with both a vibrant and at the same time relaxed feel.
